Cappadocia's Rocky, Remarkable Past

Alexander the Great, Persians, Romans, Byzantines, and Arabs ruled or raided the Cappadocian city-states in turn. With all the fighting, local inhabitants literally dug in - excavating their communities from the soft volcanic rock in easily defended cliffs or mountainsides. For centuries, it was one of the centers of the Christian world, and its rock-hewn monasteries produced some of the great early ecclesiastical writers like Basil the Great and Gregory the Illuminator (who brought the new faith to Armenia.)

The last Christians were expelled after World War I in accordance with the infamous "population exchange treaty" between Greece and Turkey (a document that forced millions from their homes to allow the two countries to homogenize their ethnic make-up). But well over 1,000 churches remain, some dating back to the earliest days of Christianity, and almost all predating the Ottoman invasions of the 13th century.

Today, this traditional region is becoming dependent on tourism. Pensions, restaurants, and tour operators have sprung up in Goreme, rgp, and other villages. It's still largely undiscovered, however, and the resourceful visitor will often have the less-known sites to themselves.

Unfortunately, recent decades have also seen the defacement of many church frescos, which some Turkish teenagers identify with perennial archenemy Greece. Many sites are completely unguarded, and a number of iconic church paintings have had the initials of local youth carved into their faces. Perhaps the importance of tourism to the local economy will encourage better custodianship.

That night our host apologized for the state of the monuments as we sat around his courtyard fire, while lamb shishkebabs sizzled and the cook played a three-stringed fiddle. "Now we have arranged marriages and MTV existing side by side, and it can be bewildering for young people growing up," he said. "But I think the situation will improve. After all, we've always been at the crossroads of the world."

What You Need to Know

When to go to Cappadocia: Spring and autumn are often the best times to go, to take advantage of moderate weather and smaller crowds.

Getting There. Numerous private companies run modern, air-conditioned Mercedes motor coaches direct from Istanbul (12 hours; $15) - a great way to get a feel for the Turkish interior.

Getting Around. Nevsehir is the major transportation hub, but it's far nicer to stay in Goreme or rgp. While you can get around by bus and minivan, Cappadocia's sites are spread over a 50-by-30-mile area and it's worth renting a car or motorcycle on arrival in the region.

Money. Turkey is inexpensive for travelers. Credit cards are not widely accepted in Cappadocia, and traveler's checks can't be cashed just anywhere.

Safety. Before you go, check with the US State Department about travel advisories. Turkey is generally safe, but an ongoing counterinsurgency operation against the Kurds in the east of the country has led to occasional reprisals in Istanbul. The usual precautions against pickpockets apply, but unlike Istanbul, most of Cappadocia is extremely crime-free.

Highlights. Some key sites in the region: the underground city at Derinkuyu, the Goreme open-air museum, the Uchisar fortress, and the churches and scenery of the Ihlara gorge. Tour outfits in Goreme and rgp offer tours to most of these places.

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