Packing the Perfect Portable Feast

FOOD to go means ``making everything ahead of time and keeping it well chilled - good and cold,'' says Nathalie Dupree, author of ``Matters of Taste'' (New York: Knopf) and host of a national television series with the same name. It's important to make sure the food will ``keep'' until eating time. ``Some things you can even freeze,'' she says.

Ms. Dupree offers this menu for a picnic in the park, or even an outdoor concert. ``I like to pack my china,'' she says. (She packs it securely in her basket.)

One of Dupree's favorite places to picnic is Hard Labor Creek State Park near Social Circle, Ga. SESAME CHICKEN 4 chicken breasts, skinned, boned, and cut into 1-inch chunks 8 tablespoons soy sauce 4 teaspoons dark oriental sesame oil 2 tablespoons honey 2 teaspoons fresh ginger, grated 2 green onions or scallions, chopped 6 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted

Mix 4 tablespoons of the soy and 2 teaspoons of the sesame oil together and marinate the chicken chunks briefly. Drain.

Put on skewers and grill (over charcoal if possible) until done, basting with rest of marinade, from 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the heat. (They are done when all the pink is gone and they are white in the center.)

Mix the rest of the soy and sesame oil with the honey, ginger, and green onions, and top the hot chicken with the sauce.

Refrigerate, covered, overnight or at least 2 hours.

Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds before serving. Reheat 10 minutes at 350 degrees F. or serve cold.

Serves 8. PARK PICNIC Cold Curried Tomato Soup Sesame Chicken Garlic-herb-cheese Stuffed bread or French bread Marinated vegetables Strawberry tarts