Designers views on fashions trends. Eleanor Lambert, a fashion leader for more than half a century and creator of the renowned Coty Awards (considered the Oscars of the fashion industry), recently questioned various fashion and accessories designers about fashion trends of 1985 and what's ahead this year. She agreed to share her findings with Monitor readers. Find your favorites on the following pages, and learn their views.
1. Who in your opinion were the most influential man and the most influential woman in the world of fashion in 1985? 2. The form-fitting silhouette was the major style trend in 1985. Will clothes grow tighter, or will the public reject this as they rejected the exaggeratedly loose, ``bag lady'' look? 3. How will the idea of feminine beauty change next year? More curves? Not so tall? 4. Red was the runaway hit color of 1985. What color do you predict as the next across-the-board favorite color? 5. Will clothes be more ``classic'' and ultra simple in 1986 or will they be more experimental, ornamental, and heavily accessorized? Following are the answers from the fashion wizards. Adolfo
Mrs. Ronald Reagan set the standard for dressing for a role in life and as a charming, active woman. The President is the role model of our time, dressing for his position, yet able to look totally relaxed on vacation. . . . Fitted clothes can go just so far in today's life. There is no use pushing a silhouette that only fashion models can wear. . . . We will admire the healthy curved woman again. . . . Red will continue to be the best of all colors for every type of woman, and fashion traditions will go on evolving . . . . Anne Cole
Giorgio Armani was last year's most influential designer in both men's and women's fashion, responsible for broad shoulders and the wedge-shaped silhouette. Princess Diana influenced fashion negatively by her confused fight against royal dress regulation. The result was a childish cross between a British ``mod'' and a youngster dressed up in mother's finery. . . . Women hate tight clothes, but they want to show their figures. Some modification of tightness will occur. . . . Curves are ahead. Pretty will be a synonym for curvy. . . . I see green as the next super-popular color. . . . ``Classic'' has become too safe and therefore boring. We must experiment or perish . . . . Bill Blass
Nancy Reagan influences the women of the world. Donna Karan was 1985's most original and influential designer. Don Johnson (``Miami Vice'') had the strongest influence on men's fashion. . . . Today's women accept fitted clothes; the slim silhouette will continue. . . . Because of fit, a more rounded figure will be the ideal . . . . Yellow will be the big fashion color of 1986. . . . Simplicity never dies as an ideal, and classic in the evolutionary sense -- a little different each season -- is the designer's best bet. Bijan (men's fashion designer)
President Reagan is the world's role model in every way. Even Russia imitates his look. He brought back the business suit and now has revived blue jeans and the T-shirt as a fashion. . . . For men or women, clothes that fit the body are always best. . . . The Oriental type of woman is a new influence on the ideal. . . . White will be worn for day and night by well-dressed men. . . . People are beginning to re-learn how to buy the very best clothes and wear them a long time. Mollie Parnis
President and Mrs. Reagan were the unquestioned influentials of the year, in every way: style, personality, and dedication to their jobs. . . . Clothes will grow closer to the body with less-exaggerated shoulders. . . . the beauty ideal will be more curvy and sexy. . . . Red will go on being loved by designers and the public. It's cheerful and adaptable. . . . Sleek will be the style catchword of 1986. Valentino
Public personalities who stand for a particular life style influence the segment of the public who identify with each one. There is the Reagan Style and the Madonna Style, expressed in clothes and everything else. . . . No one look dominates, but people in general prefer easy fitting clothes. . . . The ideal beauty of today is more natural and individual, not in a mould. . . . If she's tall she wants to look taller, if petite she wants to look dainty. The very tall, super-thin woman is less intimidated than the voluptuous type. . . . Red is my favorite color and I am happy to see it become a classic. After black and white, red is the most flattering pure color. . . . I see the simple silhouette continuing, and that means more ornaments and accessories. Giorgio Sant'Angelo
Michael Jackson and Madonna influenced fashion profoundly without being imitated. Their sense of drama inspired everybody to try to look a little surprising, a little different. . . . I think people will reject tight clothes. They don't work today. . . . I'd like to see turquoise and the strong pastels take over, but red will always be good fashion. . . . Clothes will be more decorated, but let's not have more fussy accessories and excess jewelry. Gene Ewing
Nobody could fault the influence of Princess Diana, Nancy Reagan and Madonna. They were the year's First Ladies of Fashion. Diana showed how to be yourself within a tradition, Mrs. Reagan showed how to be traditional yet interesting, and Madonna showed how to twist fashion traditions around your little finger and get away with it. . . . People won't reject tight clothes, because designers will give tightness comfort, and women and men will flaunt good figures. . . . In fact, nobody is going to cover up very much. . . . Emerald green will be the next hot fashion color. . . . The catchword of 1986 will be knit, knit, knit. That's the way to comfortable tightness. Jonathan Fashion's most influential man was President Reagan. Influential woman? Too many to count, but only women who work and are in love inspire me. . . . The public is so diversified; everyone has an opinion that suits his or her own body type and lifestyle. I cannot give a black-and-white answer to a gray situation -- it would not be accurate. It's up to the majority of women whether they like tight or less-tight clothes, but they won't want looseness. . . . The ideal feminine beauty will be the same classic approach -- beauty is in the eye of the beholder. One person will think fat is in, another that thin is in. The idea of beauty should be individualistic -- it cannot be pinpointed. Like fashion preferences, beauty ideals are all over the lot today. But I'd say the skin-and-bones look is out . . . Red has been the No. 1 color and it is now a basic. Just as there are 1,000 different shades of black and 1,000 different shades of white, so there are 1,000 variations of red for the general populace. Whether its fuschia or aubergine, it's still red. . . . Classic until another explosive idea comes along as with Dior's New Look (1947) or the Courreges short A-line of the mid-'60s. Halston American men and women have learned to build a personal style for themselves, but the image of today's different points of view are best represented by Mrs. Reagan and Princess Diana on the one hand, Madonna and Princess Stephanie of Monaco on the other. In men's clothes, men follow President Reagan and Prince Charles or David Bowie and ``Rambo.'' . . . Figure-following fashion is here for while, but modern women always reject extremes. . . . A glorified version of ``Miss Average'' will take over from the too-tall, too-thin mannequin-type beauty. . . . Red is a basic color now. The next color sweep will be blue and purple tones. . . . I look for inventive cut in slim clothes and experimental ideas in accessories, like the use of iron with diamonds, jewelled hats, and fabric shoes, perhaps? Helen Hayes (Paris couturi`ere) Modern fashion is basically affected by two great designers, Chanel and Balenciaga. We are still following Chanel's free, informal attitude, and we are still doing variations on Balenciaga's modernistic abstract shapes. . . . We are in a period of fitted clothes for women and men. The skill will be to match the clothes to various figures to their best advantage, emphasizing a small waist, the bosom, long neck, narrow hips, long legs as you like. . . . I see the new ideal beauty as less tall, daintier, more rounded and less aggressive. . . . More tender, less vivid colors will come in. . . . The 1986 way of dressing will be simple for day, with decorative accessories, and very ornamental evening clothes. Carolyn Roehm (new name designer of 1985) Madonna was the most influential fashion personality among the young set, but President and Mrs. Reagan remained role models for most of the world. . . . I do not believe clothes will get tighter. I see a refinement of 1985's snug silhouette, more room to move but still defining the body. . . . The next beauty ideal will have more sexy curves, fewer bones showing. . . . The 1986 colors I believe in are brown and champagne. . . . My idea of 1986 fashion is ``ultra-refinement'' . . . inconspicuous luxury that never hits you in the eye. Caroline Herrera
The Reagans, as usual, influenced the world. Princess Diana and Jacqueline Onassis influenced their generations. Ungaro was the top fashion influence via his shirred short dresses. . . . I have always believed in form-fitting, unlayered clothes, stopping at any extremes. Comfort is chic. Modern women will not accept discomfort. . . . I regret to say that ``Dallas'' and ``Dynasty'' have created false ideals of beauty and fashion, with an excess of makeup, jewelry, and general vulgarity. . . . To me the eternal fashion color is white. It always looks fresh, and mixes with everything. . . . I believe in classic clothes and simple ornaments as fine as possible. No excesses. Carole Hochman (lingerie designer, Christian Dior, Chevette)
The people who most influenced fashion in 1985 were Nancy Reagan (for her red), Prince Charles (for symbolizing the young executive look), and Don Johnson for showing the best in casual menswear. . . . Tight fit will stay, because stretch fabrics will help to make them wearable. . . . The beauty ideal will be lean but softly curved. Neat heads and tailored elegance will be glamorized by fine classic jewelry. Danny Noble
The most influential individual in 1985 fashion was Claude Montana. He gave us the wide-shouldered, narrow hipped, curvalinear silhouette that will continue through the '80s. . . . The job of every designer is to achieve the right balance in a new silhouette so that it can be worn by everybody. . . . The ideal beauty is not a body but a personality. Today's ideal woman has . . . grace and wit regardless of her physical size or features. . . . The net hit fashion color will be navy blue, across the board. . . . We must not let the next word after ``simple'' and ``classic'' be ``boring.'' I see excitement coming through new balance between narrow and full. Pauline Trig`ere
The most admired man of 1985 [was] Malcolm Forbes, the elderly publisher who keeps young by flying in a balloon, and sailing on his yacht, a toy museum. . . . Most imitated (unfortunately), the actress Joan Collins. . . . Tight clothes do nothing for a woman except show bones or bumps. But I certainly don't like bag lady looseness either. Always keep a happy medium. . . . There is no ``ideal'' beauty today. To each her own realization of her best points. . . . Red is THE color for this and every year. Even a touch of red makes for a happier day. . . . Simple, classic clothes are never out of style. Miguel Cruz (Italian designer)
No one person dictated world fashion in 1985. People are too dedicated to designing their own ``look'' . . . Nineteen eighty-six style will be a blend of fluidity and fit that will be body-revealing, but not difficult to wear. . . . Mystery will be more fashionable, with sexiness played down. . . . The more delicate, small-boned woman will be the ideal beauty. . . . I see tones of grey with bright accents as fashionable in 1986. Akira
The Prince and Princess of Wales were the most influential personalities. . . . Loose clothes will never go out of style, but they will be cut to lie against the body. Otherwise it's the corset, and I doubt women will go back that far. . . . I think the intellectual type is the new feminine ideal. . . . Hats will be very important this year, but we have overdone the accessories. Alta Leath (Altomar Jewels)
The Princess of Wales and TV programs like ``Dynasty'' have had great fashion influence, good and bad. The Princess is still trying to find her own look, looking too matronly one time and too girlish the next. ``Dynasty'' is glamorous, but tasteless. . . . Clothes that are too tight or too loose are what what women want. They want new clothes new ways to look pretty. . . . The beauty ideal of 1986 will still be a pretty face, a good figure, and perfect grooming. Height and more or less curves don't matter. . . . Royal blue and emerald green will be the new fashion colors. . . . The word ``classic'' now has a personal meaning to many, many women who have learned how to choose new looks with staying power for several years. Mary McFadden
Famous couples had the greatest fashion influence in 1985. The Reagans, the Prince and Princess of Wales, Madonna, and Sean Penn, Sylvester Stallone, and Brigette Nielsen, and most recently Michael and Diana Douglas. . . . The 1986 silhouette will stay as it is, but just a bit softer. No drastic change. . . . I see the beauty ideal as continuing lean, athletic, and quite boyish/girlish. . . . The color purple will be biggest next year. . . . Classic, simple shapes will go on into the 21st century. Ruffles and overemphasis on gaudy, bad-quality glitz have been a glut on the fashion market. Barry Kieselstein-Cord (jewelry designer)
The Ronald Reagans and Don Johnson on TV had the greatest style impact in 1985. . . . Clothes will remain tight-fitting. . . . The beauty people admire and imitate will be more seductive but less jazzy. . . . Soft pink and sexy black are the next color crazes. . . . Classic with quality. Jewelry will move entirely away from the chunky junky look. Eric Javits (milliner)
Nineteen eighty-five had two groups of influential [designs]: the ``retro'' and the forward-movers. In the first group Chanel, Gary Grant, Katherine Hepburn; in the second Princess Diana, Madonna, Princess Stephanie of Monaco, Donna Karan with her body suits. . . . The body-conscious silhouette will continue, with more bareness. Women will demand and get degrees of tightness the way they now have varied hemlines. . . . The beauty ideal to come will be a lady with curves but good taste. . . . People never tire of red, but the next high fashion colors will be the purples, greens, and yellows. . . . Nineteen eighty-six will be a big year for accessories, such as scarves, gloves and hats, hats, hats -- unconventional, inventive, such as arm bands and unusual belts will go with the new simple jersey dress craze. Steven Brody (Cadoro Jewelry)
The big fashion influences of the year were Yves Saint Laurent in Europe and Donna Karan in America. . . . Designers may show clothes tighter, but they will ship modified versions. . . . The curvaceous beauty . . . is coming back in style. Shades of Lillian Russell, Theda Bara, and Marilyn Monroe. . . . The next color move will be to the corals, orange, and yellows. . . . I see more rich and ornamental fabrics coming in, worn with more ornate jewelry but without all those sequins and beads. Pat Kerr (known for romantic lace dresses)
Princess Diana was the most watched woman of the year. She is trying to find herself in every way, including dress. It will be interesting to see if she makes it in 1986. Madonna and Prince were there for the younger kids. . . . I don't see tighter clothes, but the body will dictate fashion. . . . Pastel colors and neutrals will replace strong colors in 1986. . . . I see fashion as moving toward finer details on the basic slim shapely outlines. Monika Tilley (sportswear designer)
The most imitated fashion designers were Giorgio Armani, Pierre Cardin, and Chanel. The tastemakers of the year were Princess Diana, Joan Collins, and Don Johnson of ``Miami Vice'' with his exciting color mixes. . . . Nineteen eighty-six will bring clothes closer to the body but in new proportions. . . . The new beauty ideal will have more curves and be exceedingly well groomed. No more fuzzy hairdos. . . . For women, the fashionable color will be black, black, and more black, with a chance that purple will be strong. . . . The look will continue spare, with more and more dramatic points such as intriguing, sexy hats. Roger Vivier (shoe designer)
Mrs. Gorbachev of the Soviet Union reminded us all that dressing well indicates you want to be liked by the rest of the world, that you are joining the human race. Hooray for her! . . . I see no extremes of any sort, merely a drive to make clothes more beautiful and more suitable for contemporary living. . . . The beauty ideal of 1986 will not be a cover girl, but a personality with a provocative ``off'' feature, like Gigi or Audrey Hepburn in ``Funny Face.''
She will be smaller and with both sparkle and mystery. . . . Black and white will be the natural reaction from an overplay of bright color. . . . Clothes will be slim but not tight, and shoes will be very simple in shape, but new more abstract shapes with added ornaments. David Evins (shoe designer) YoungReagan was the idol of most women everywhere, and Mrs. William Buckley, the more mature woman with great style, symbolized the year's sophisticated social look. . . . The classic, slim trend in 1985 clothes reaffirmed the timeless importance of the classic pump in foot fashion. . . . The 1986 beauty idol [will be] less tall and gangling. . . . As to men dressing like women, haven't we got enough trouble as it is? . . . In shoes, a purplish-wine is the new basic tone that will be worn with every other color. . . . I think clothes will be less safe, with women looking for more design interest and innovation. Alan Flusser (men's designer)
Prince Charles, Ralph Lauren, Douglas Fairbanks, Ronald Reagan, and Don Johnson all inspired the way men dressed in 1985. . . . Easy fit will be the 1986 silhouette. . . . The coming hit color for men is oxford gray. . . . Menswear is in a period of experimental change, but the overall effect will be classic and conservative.
