Uses for mustard with the best of British fare

Every once in a while a really good cookbook is put out by a food manufacturer. The first inclination might be to suspect an overemphasis of the product, but in many cases familiarity with the ingredient, plus an honesty of presentation are combined with excellent results.

Such a case is "Colman's Book of Traditional British Cookery," by J. Audrey Ellison, (London: Wardlock Ltd.). Mrs. Ellison has selected the best of British fare, with particular emphasis on the uses to which mustard can be put in traditional savory cookery. She has also selected puddings and bakes to make the book complete and useful for all occasions.

Britons, like many others, are inclined to take their own cooking for granted. In the tendency to favor the cuisines of their European neighbors, it is easy for them to forget that there is much great food that orginates in their own islands.

Mustard, the time-honored accompaniment to beef and other meats, is rather prominent and it is only natural since Britain is a nation of meat with their Beef and Kidney Pies, Beef and Yorkshire Pudding, and Lamb with Mint Sauce.

The recipes in the cookbook were chosen carefully to represent the finest in traditional British cooking. As the only spice widely grown in the country, mustard has a long asociation with many of these traditional recipes. Here is one you might like to try. Mumbled Eggs 8 eggs 2 teaspoons prepared mustard Salt and peper 50 g (2 ounces) finely chopped mushrooms 25 g (1 ounce) butter 50 g (2 ounces) cream cheese or soft cheese 1 tablespoon cream or top of the milk 4 to 8 slices toasted bread, cut into triangles Savoury 25 g (1 ounce) butter 1 teaspoon prepared mustard 1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley

To make the savoury butter, cream butter with mustard and parsley.

Beat egss with mustard and season with salt and pepper. Add chopped mushrooms. Melt butter over low heat, and eggs and mushrooms and stir until they begin to set.

Add cheese and stir several minutes until cheese is thoroughly incorporated and eggs are cooked. Stir in cream and serve at once on a large dish surrounded by toast triangles spread with the savoury butter. Serve with extr a mushrooms and crisp bacon rolls. Serves 4. P. H.